To put it simply, myself and many other tortoise keepers and breeders do not feel that it is necessary at all to feed these commercial diets, and that they in fact can be very detrimental to the overall health of a tortoise.

On the other nutritional pages located on my site, you will have the opportunity to learn more about protein, oxalic acid, phosphorus, calcium, vitamin A, vitamin D3, and many other compounds found in grocery vegetables, greens, and prepared diets. While you may not understand the importance of these things now, let me gently say that if you are considering taking the easy way out and feeding commercial foods and grocery vegetables only, tortoises are not the pet for you.

Many tortoise experts say that if a tortoise cannot find a food in the wild, then it is not wise to offer it in captivity. While I find this statement essentially to be true, most of us do not live in the home range of the tortoises we keep. We do not have access to native flora. It is therefore our job as responsible owners to replicate as closely as possible the components that make up a true wild diet.

Commercial diets contain ingredients such as soy, corn, and wheat middlings. These ingredients' main claim to fame is that they are cheap, cost effective fillers. The nutritional value and fiber content of these items is very questionable.

You will find information located within these pages that is very detailed in terms of nutrition. I will attempt here to simplify as much as possible.

This is a list of items that are proper food. Items with an asterisk (*) are considered very important, those with two (**) are absolutely required. 

Please keep in mind this list is EXTREMELY simplified, and is geared towards new owners that may be overwhelmed by the wealth of dietary information available.

GRASS OR GRASS HAYS (timothy, orchard grass, Bermuda grass, fescue,
and other grasses EXCLUDING ALFALFA)**

BROADLEAF PLANTAIN (Plantago major)*
CHICORY
COLLARDS - RAW
DANDELION*
DUCKWEED
ENDIVE
FIGS
GRAPE LEAVES
KALE
PRICKLYPEAR-FRUIT
PRICKLYPEAR-PADS*
TURNIP GREENS

CUTTLEBONE OR CALCIUM CARBONATE**

The most disastrous statement I have ever heard in connection with ANY species of tortoise, Sulcatas and other arid species included, is that they do not need water. Pet stores repeatedly tell new owners that the tortoises receive all the water they need from the food that they eat.

This is a death sentence, and cruel to the extreme. All life needs water, no exceptions.

Hatchling tortoises are especially susceptible to death from dehydration. Severe dehydration leads to kidney failure, Metabolic Bone Disease, and eventually death. This condition is often known as Hatchling Failure Syndrome or Failure to Thrive. The tortoise eventually becomes so weak that it cannot move, the eyes film over, and the shell resorbs into the body. It is sad and horrifying to witness.

You will be able to find information on how to properly house your tortoise to prevent dehydration, but in the meantime, please make sure that your tortoise has access to a clean, fresh, non-chlorinated water source at all times. The dish should be large enough for the tortoise to be able to enter it completely, with the water depth shallow enough for the tortoise to only be submerged to the bridge between it's upper and lower shell (carapace and plastron.) The dish should be easy to get into and out of.

I know that all of this information can be very difficult for a new or prospective tortoise owner to take in all at once. Getting a tortoise is a lifetime and very detailed commitment. If at any time I can be of any help, or if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to email me at kyryah@hotmail.com and I will do my best to assist you. The only stupid question is the one that you don't ask, and in the end, compromises the life and health of your tortoise.